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Smoking “Cool” Again? Unpacking the Alarming Trend
Just a generation ago, it seemed like the era of widespread smoking was finally drawing to a close. A symbolic 1997 Time magazine cover featuring a dramatically stubbed-out cigarette encapsulated this sentiment, heralding what many hoped was the beginning of the end for a habit that had gripped nations for centuries. Public health campaigns had made significant inroads, smoking bans had cleared the air in public spaces, and tobacco use in both Britain and America had plummeted to an 80-year low. Yet, as we navigate the mid-2020s, a disquieting trend is emerging: smoking, to the dismay of oncologists, dentists, and public health advocates everywhere, appears to be regaining a veneer of “cool,” particularly in certain cultural circles.
The news of smoking’s demise, it seems, was indeed greatly exaggerated. You can stamp out a cigarette, but extinguishing its deeply ingrained, often romanticized allure is proving to be a far more complex challenge. This isn’t about a return to the mid-20th century when nearly half of all adults regularly lit up, but a more nuanced, and perhaps more insidious, re-emergence in the cultural zeitgeist.

Celebrity Sparks and Catwalk Clouds: The New Face of Smoking Chic?
The evidence, though often anecdotal and image-driven, is becoming harder to ignore. Pop culture, a powerful shaper of trends, is witnessing a noticeable uptick in smoking imagery. British pop star Charli XCX made headlines lighting up during a performance and cheekily offering fans a “Brat starter pack” that included cigarettes.

New York Fashion Week saw models for designer Christian Cowan strutting the catwalk with cigarettes teetering between their fingers, evoking an “elevated glamour” aesthetic.

Musicians like Addison Rae and Lorde have referenced smoking in new singles. Paparazzi shots and social media feeds increasingly capture celebrities like actress Dakota Johnson or popstar Sabrina Carpenter taking a drag. Even global superstar Beyoncé incorporated a cigarette into her stage performance during the “Cowboy Carter” tour, a move that, regardless of intent, contributes to the visual normalization of smoking. This isn’t confined to fleeting moments; dedicated Instagram accounts like @Cigfluencers, which curate images of glamorous celebrities smoking, are finding a wealth of new material. Jared Oviatt, who runs the account, told The New York Times that while he initially had to delve into archives when he started in 2021, “every week there’s at least one or two people where I’m like, ‘OK, that’s new.’” Featuring stars like Dua Lipa with a cigarette, he notes, amplifies the perceived coolness due to their “general star power.”

Even niche, independent tobacco brands like Hestia Cigarettes, which markets “American-grown naked wild tobacco,” are sensing a shift, boldly declaring on social media: “We are sooo back, baby!” This resurgence, however subtle, is a worrying development for public health.
A Brief History of Smoke and Mirrors: From Rations to Health Warnings
To understand the present, we must glance at the past. Cigarettes were once so ubiquitous they were included in soldiers’ rations during World War I. Post-World War II, tobacco companies launched massive, sophisticated marketing campaigns, meticulously crafting an image of smoking as glamorous, masculine, sophisticated, and even healthy – the popular Old Gold brand once labeled its cigarettes “fresh as mountain air.” This relentless promotion worked, and smoking rates peaked in Western countries around the mid-1960s.
The tide began to turn decisively on January 11, 1964, when the U.S. Surgeon General, Luther Terry, released a landmark report unequivocally linking smoking tobacco to lung cancer, throat cancer, and chronic bronchitis. This was a pivotal moment. Warning labels started appearing on cigarette packets, and television and radio advertising for cigarettes was gradually banned in many countries. The scientific evidence mounted, with studies consistently showing that a significant portion – as many as 30 percent – of all cancer deaths in industrialized nations were attributable to cigarette smoking. The World Health Organization (WHO) now states that tobacco kills more than 8 million people each year.
The “cool” image of smoking lost much of its sheen as public smoking bans forced the habit outdoors, often into designated, less glamorous areas. For many nicotine addicts, vapes and e-cigarettes, touted as a potentially healthier alternative, began to fill the void. However, more recent studies have linked vaping to its own array of health concerns, particularly regarding youth uptake and the unknown long-term effects of inhaling aerosols, leading to a new wave of regulatory scrutiny and public debate.
Why the Pivot Back? Unpacking the “New Cool”
So, what’s fueling this apparent, albeit limited, renaissance of smoking’s cool factor, especially among younger generations like Millennials and Gen Z?
A Rebellion Against Wellness Culture?
Some sociologists and cultural commentators suggest it might be a form of rebellion against the pervasive “wellness culture” that has dominated social media and lifestyle trends for the past decade. The constant pressure to optimize, detox, cleanse, and pursue an often expensive and unattainable ideal of health (think Gwyneth Paltrow’s Goop or Kourtney Kardashian’s supplement lines) can be exhausting. For some, lighting a cigarette might feel like a small act of defiance, a rejection of this hyper-curated, health-obsessed narrative. Rachel Yara, a student in Boston, articulated this sentiment: “Part of it is that it almost feels like rejection of wellness culture, which is very stupid. I don’t have the time or money to go to Whole Foods and do yoga and eat bowls. I’m just sitting here smoking my cigs.” This “slacker chic” or “ironic detachment” can manifest as a performative embrace of something known to be unhealthy.
Inter-Generational Nostalgia and Aesthetic Reframing
There’s also an element of nostalgia, often for an era experienced only through media. Images of iconic figures like James Dean in “Rebel Without a Cause” or classic film noir anti-heroes with cigarettes permanently attached to their lips are being rediscovered and reframed by younger generations. This retro appeal, detached from the lived reality of smoking’s consequences, can make the act seem aesthetically intriguing or imbued with a sense of vintage cool.
The “Boomerang Effect” of Health Warnings?
Interestingly, some research suggests that overly graphic or fear-inducing health warnings on cigarette packets might, for certain individuals, have a counterproductive effect. A study from the University of Illinois pointed to the concept of “psychological reactance.” This occurs when individuals perceive a threat to their freedom of choice, prompting them to engage in the very behavior they are being warned against as a way to reassert their autonomy. For some, particularly those with a rebellious streak, the explicit warnings might inadvertently make smoking seem more edgy or counter-cultural.
The Allure of the Forbidden
Decades of public health campaigns have successfully made smoking less socially acceptable and, in many circles, almost taboo. This very “forbidden fruit” aspect can, paradoxically, make it appealing to some, especially young people exploring boundaries or seeking to differentiate themselves. The act of smoking can become a symbol of minor rebellion or a way to signal non-conformity.
The Unchanging Dangers: Why This Trend is Alarming
Regardless of shifting cultural perceptions or the “why” behind this smoldering trend, the fundamental dangers of smoking remain unchanged and severe. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC) unequivocally states that smoking harms nearly every organ of the body, causes numerous diseases, and reduces the health of smokers in general. The list of ailments directly linked to smoking is extensive and includes various cancers (lung, throat, mouth, bladder, etc.), heart disease, stroke, COPD (emphysema and chronic bronchitis), increased risk of infections, and negative impacts on reproductive health.
The idea that a resurgence in smoking’s “coolness” could undermine decades of hard-won public health progress is deeply concerning. The normalization of smoking, even within specific subcultures or celebrity circles, can have a ripple effect, particularly on impressionable young people who are more susceptible to social cues and marketing influences.
Conclusion: Seeing Through the Smoke Screen
The apparent re-emergence of smoking as “cool” in some quarters is a complex phenomenon, likely driven by a mix of celebrity influence, a reaction against wellness culture, nostalgia, and the enduring allure of rebellion. However, it’s crucial to see this trend for what it is: a dangerous flirtation with a habit that has devastating and well-documented consequences for health and longevity. The “cool” factor is a carefully constructed illusion, historically propagated by an industry with a vested interest in selling an addictive product, and now perhaps being inadvertently revived by cultural currents that overlook or ironically embrace its risks.
True coolness stems from authenticity, confidence, and well-being – not from an addiction that compromises health, drains finances, and harms the environment. As World No Tobacco Day reminds us annually, the fight against tobacco is ongoing. It requires continuous vigilance, education, and a commitment to prioritizing health over fleeting trends or manufactured allure. The most powerful statement against the “coolness” of smoking is choosing not to start, or making the courageous decision to quit.
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